RMNP Visitor Centre

Parks Canada is in a party mood. This year marks the 125^th Birthday of our first national park – Banff – and the Centennial of Parks Canada, the world’s first national park service. Riding Mountain National Park (RMNP), Travel Manitoba and the Province of Manitoba decided a celebration was in order, and so, on August 20, in conjunction with Manitoba Homecoming 2010, a 3-day party was planned.

Everyone was invited, including me.

There are 3 access points to RMNP. Hwy 10 bisects the Park north and south, so if you’re coming in from Brandon or Dauphin, that’d be your choice. Alternatively, if you’re approaching the Park from the east, through the Rural Municipality of McCreary, then Hwy 19 will provide you with the most scenic route and an opportunity to drive through the only original national park gate left in Canada.

During the Homecoming 2010 weekend I made Elk Horn Resort my home away from home. The resort is located just south of RMNP and yet it is within walking distance of Wasagaming, the Park’s only commercial destination and a perpetual hub of activity.

Wasagaming is nestled comfortably on the south shore of Clear Lake and its restaurants, stores, hotels, and other amenities are all geared towards servicing the needs of cottagers, campers and visitors. The park is closed in the winter months and has few permanent residents. However, from May until October, the population soars with over 40,000 cottagers and as many as 300,000 visitors.

Wasagaming

RMNP is a big place, covering over 3000 km2. Within its boundaries there is a world-renowned golf course, over 400 km of hiking, cycling and equestrian trails, and the famous blue gem, Clear Lake, with its deep, cold water and inviting beaches. You could spend a lifetime exploring Riding Mountain, but I only had 2 days, so the tricky bit was how to narrow down the many choices.

As is my way, I turned to the experts for help. RMNP Visitor Services is located in the centre of Wasagaming. Inside the Tudor style structure, (built in 1933), I also found a gift shop, a theatre, the resource library and a discovery centre. Park Interpreters were on hand and helpfully pointed out the obvious – a big sandwich board advertising all the weekend’s events. Unless I actually sub-divided myself, I knew there was no way I could do everything on offer, but with clever planning I could do many.

My first organized event was a guided interpretive hike down the Gorge Creek Trail. A dozen hikers met at the Visitor Centre and car-pooled out to the trailhead, which is about 30 km from Wasagaming. Roads around the townsite are paved, but Hwy 19 quickly turns into a dusty gravel road – which isn’t a problem unless you have your bicycles hitched to the back of your vehicle. (I’ll be picking grit out of my gears forever).

RMNP rests on top of the terraced ridges of the Manitoba escarpment. Riding Mountain is not actually a mountain, but it is lofty, reaching 756 metres at its highest point. Gorge Creek Trail is on the east side of the escarpment and the trailhead can be found at a little picnic site called Dead Ox Creek (no explanation needed). The trail is primitive, just a line in the clay (or shale) with conveniently placed steps when necessary, and it is often slippery and even treacherous, so you have to keep your wits about you.

Gorge Creek Trail

Gorge Creek Trail is 6.5 km one way and descends about 300 metres – or, as our interpreter informed us, the height of the CN Tower. It took us 2.5 hrs at a leisurely pace, stopping now and again to listen to our interpreter and then to lounge at a picturesque overlook glamorously called “The Snout”. The distance you travel is relatively short, but what’s interesting is that you pass through 3-vegetation zones: aspen parkland, mixed wood forest and Boreal Forest. As you go down the gorge you can actually feel the temperature falling. We went from a hot and humid +30º to a chilly (yet refreshing) +15º. The terminus of the trail (unless you want to hike back up again) is at Birches Picnic site. I was happy that we’d ferried a few of our cars down to this point and were able to skip the arduous hike back up the escarpment. After all, the day was young and I had plans for the afternoon.

It is possible to cycle, so I’m told, around Clear Lake, with only a small detour on gravel roads past Keeseekowenin First Nation on the west side of the Lake. I’ve walked the south shore many times and so on this Homecoming 2010 weekend we chose to take our bikes on the North Shore trails.

Initially the limestone bike and pedestrian trail cuts a path between the shores of Clear Lake and some of the most beautiful cottages I’ve seen. This is a national park and I appreciated the uniformity in the matching docks and lengthy staircases leading down from all the cottages. Eventually, however, the pathway grinds to a halt, but you can continue on the remnants of an old highway and make your way to the North Shore. I was hoping to pedal as far as the Wishing Well, just a coin’s toss from the Clear Lake Golf Course, but as it happens, I did get my wish anyway – a refreshing beverage and a substantial meal.

I’m not a golfer, but I have been known to take advantage of a Club House or two. Clear Lake Golf Course’s Club House is a heritage building which over looks the 9^th hole, which in turn overlooks the expanse of Clear Lake. Ribs were on the menu, my beverage was sweating instead of me, and I was a happy camper.

Clear Lake Golf Course - Tamarack Tournament

The weekend should end there, right? Not so fast. We had one more IMPORTANT stop to make and that was the free concert on the beach; the pinnacle of the Homecoming 2010 weekend celebrations. Thankfully we were on our bikes because Wasagaming was packed to the rafters with people, dogs, cars, you name it. We probably couldn’t have found a parking spot had we tried.

Manitoba’s own Sierra Noble was on stage when we finally muscled our way through the crowd of over 5,000 people. She is a fun little thing to watch and she can saw away on that fiddle like there’s no tomorrow. I really picked up on her energy and it was obvious that the huge crowd did as well. Then – Juno and multi CCMA award winners Doc Walker hit the stage just as the sun was setting. If the crowd was energized for Sierra Noble they exploded for Doc Walker. I almost got “moshed” trying to get a photo.

Doc Walker Band - Chris Thorsteinson- Lead Vocals

The concert wrapped up around 11:00 p.m. and then the throng of people had to extricate themselves from the beach. We dodged the traffic and pedaled, now completely exhausted, back to our comfy digs at the Elk Horn Ranch. I went to bed feeling content that we’d done our bit to help celebrate Parks Canada’s 125 Birthday and Riding Mountain National Park’s Homecoming 2010.

Party on!

You can contact me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or if you’re in a sharing mood, leave a comment for all to share.

I have a history with the west side of Lake Winnipeg.

As a punk, my parents packed me off every summer to a spot north of Gimli called Camp Morton. The memories are still fresh in my mind – like sneaking out after curfew, stumbling barefoot down to the beach in the dark and other such funny little-girl pranks. It seemed so rebellious at the time. (Imagine my dismay, when I read a brochure called Heritage Tour Sites of Rural RM of Gimli that described my cherished childhood retreat as “a camp for under-privileged Roman Catholic children”. I beg your pardon?)

Camp Morton Stackwall Cottage

Later in life, not long after I had left home, my parents bought a cottage in the Village of Dunnottar, a conglomerate of the 3 beachside communities of Ponemah, Whytewold and Matlock. It didn’t occur to me that this hideaway might have been purchased to celebrate mum and dad’s freedom from child rearing. Had it occurred to me, I may have thought twice about heading up there whenever I could.

It’s been 15 years since the cottage was sold and I miss the west-side beaches. Obviously, it was well past time for a trip down memory lane, or more specifically, down Hwy 9.

I think about food. I’m full of deep thoughts like that. So, here’s a tip: if you leave Winnipeg at around 11:00 a.m. you will end up at Matlock Beach around lunchtime. The destination I was aiming for was Janet’s Place, an unassuming little whistle stop near the train tracks which has always been legendary for Ukrainian cooking: borscht, perogies, cabbage rolls, cabbage buns, kubassa. Oh, and homemade pie. Since I was there on behalf of Travel Manitoba I felt it was my obligation to tackle a huge bowl of bright red Ukrainian Borsht (with sour cream of course), and 3 pieces of rye bread. Burp.

Post-lunch, I waddled down to the beach to check out a series of landmarks that I have always associated with the west side of Lake Winnipeg. If England is famous for thatch-roofed homes, and Holland for its windmills, then Lake Winnipeg’s claim to fame is their birch (or aspen) stilt piers. The purpose of the piers is to escort you, in quaint style, across the first uneven bits of beach where a mixture of sand, toe-stubbing rock and slimy vegetation lurks below. If you walk the length of the pier you’ll be deposited into shallow water with a fine, sandy bottom.

Pier - Matlock Beach

Following Hwy 9 north along Lake Winnipeg, I passed through cottage country at its best. Winnipeg Beach has changed (for the better, I would say) since I was last there. The boardwalk along the edge of the lake separates the 1.6 km. length of beach from the grassy picnic area. As this is a family destination, I’m pretty sure that parents with child-laden strollers, beach toys and coolers stuffed with provisions appreciate the smooth surface of the boardwalk. I noted as well that cyclists, joggers and walkers are drawn to the boardwalk.

Winnipeg Beach Boardwalk

As I walked along Main Street I thought back to a time when vacationers could only access Winnipeg Beach by train. On a busy holiday weekend, back in 1910, Canadian Pacific Railway might make 15 trips to Winnipeg Beach and ferry as many as 40,000 passengers. The romance associated with the Orient Express pales next to names like ours: the Moonlight Special and the Daddy Train.

Although a classic wooden roller coaster and other midway attractions have long since disappeared, there are still arcades along the street – appealing in their retro sentimentality. And yet I also notice an evolution in the tenor of the downtown main street. Storefronts are sporting vibrant colours and benches line the street, inviting you to sit and rest awhile. I stopped in at the Fishfly Gallery, and introduced myself to the proprietor, Cheryl Tordon. Cheryl is a very informed individual with a sense of humour as eclectic as her taste in art. I was impressed with both.

Winnipeg Beach Main Street

In terms of my ongoing food addiction, thoughtful relatives on holiday had made dinner reservations at Casa Bianca, a top-drawer restaurant at 22 Murray Ave, just off the main street. The outside of this converted house doesn’t give up any secrets but the lesson here is, as always, don’t judge a book by its cover. Chef Alex Vaziri prepares a wide array of dishes with an Italian/Mediterranean theme and the chicken liver appetizer and seafood pastas are to die for.

My resting spot for next couple of nights was further north at Gimli’s Lakeview Resort, ideally situated on Centre Street – which terminates on the shores of Lake Winnipeg. On the south side of the hotel is a ‘seawall’ that that provides a safe haven for all manner of floating vessels. The seawall is eye-catching, particularly at sunset, when the hand painted murals, created by the Gimli Art Cub, can be witnessed in their best light.

On the north side of the seawall/pier is a lovely stretch of beach, which I poked along at sunset. The sand on Gimli’s beaches is a bit more granular than that found at Winnipeg Beach and yet children merrily gallop along, oblivious to any discomfort (thus proving that humans do not get nerve endings in their feet until they are much older). I am much older and so I donned my ‘Keens’ sandals, which really achieved the look I was after – a clown in a bikini. Jeez.

Gimli 'seawall' murals

Over the next 2 days my partner and I got to work exploring Gimli and area. The Lake Winnipeg Visitor Centre, across the street from the hotel, was worth a visit. The clerk was busy texting, but I was able to pick up the Gimli Beaches adventure guide – H2O, which had a thorough account of events, shopping and dining ideas, and a map. The “Old Town Gimli” brochure became our pocket guide to the town’s heritage buildings and sites. One of my favourites of these is H.P. Tergesen & Sons on 1^st Street. Built in 1898, Tergesen’s is the oldest operating general store in Manitoba.

H.P. Tergesen's General Store

Bike riding in and around Gimli proved to be lots of fun too. Our challenge was to keep Lake Winnipeg in our sights as much as possible. Loni Beach is just north of where Gimli’s sand beach leaves off. The cottages in this well-treed area are lovingly cared for and are, in most cases, the originals. A path connects Loni Beach to Pelican Beach, Kings Park and Gilwell Estates, newer developments with some serious pieces of architecture. It’s a great pastime to go rubber-necking along and find out who’s done what along the beachfront.

Our northerly tour ended there, however, as your only choice as a cyclist is to head on to Hwy 9, a narrow, paved highway with no shoulder whatsoever that’s far too dangerous for self-propelled modes of transport. Too bad. We’d hoped to reach Camp Morton Provincial Park.

So, we turned the bikes around, headed back south through Gimli, took a short detour on to a proper highway shoulder and finally arrived at Willow Island. This Cape-Cod like cottage area is actually a long sand-spit reaching into Lake Winnipeg and accessed by a causeway (which was a later addition). One side of Willow Island faces the wide-open, wave-crashing lake and the other side is a calm lagoon rich with birds and other wildlife. As you ride along you’ll come to a big stone monument commemorating the spot where the first 300 Icelandic settlers landed in ‘New Iceland’, back in 1875. As it happens they had no choice as they were forced ashore during a storm.

The days I spent in Gimli were terrifically hot and sunny with only a few thunderheads threatening in the evening. The Lakeview Resort had an indoor and outdoor pool, but my preference, as always, was to bob around in the lake. The lake water was cool and welcoming – especially after all that cycling.

Lake Winnipeg

Gimli is a favourite summer retreat for Manitobans and visitors from all over the world: you can while away your days lounging on the beach or you can mix it up by participating in the many cultural events. The annual Gimli Film Festival Canadian Program is really quite unique. There are 3 indoor venues presenting films by Canadian artists, but the best seat in the house is on the beach. Feature length films, dramas and documentaries are projected on to an 11-metre wide screen which floats on the surface of Lake Winnipeg – while back on shore, you can sip your coffee from the comfort of your lawn chair.

Another huge celebration in Gimli is the Icelandic Heritage Festival, also known as Islendingadagurinn. If you can say that 10 times in a row, then you should go. The Festival is held every year on the August long weekend.

And so ends my excellent adventure on the west side of Lake Winnipeg – although I should mention that on the last afternoon of my visit, we did finally make it to Camp Morton – by car. I lingered there longer than I anticipated because once you start down memory lane; it’s hard to find the off-ramp. (I’ve included some photos in the gallery below.)

You can contact me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or if you’re feeling magnanimous, leave a comment for all to share.

Jules Verne’s Phileas Fogg made it “Around the World in 80 Days” so it would seem logical (if you’re to believe a fictional character), that new-world adventurers should be able to circumnavigate Manitoba in 5 days. Phileas’ mode of travel in 1872 was rail and steamboat. In 2010, the Prairie Pathfinders Walking Club opted for a land barge – or to put that in plain language, a 47-passenger, air-conditioned motor coach.

The beauty of the Prairie Pathfinders “Bus Off and Hike” adventure was the luxury of being chauffeured from one destination to another, tucking into fine meals and, at days end, slipping between crisp sheets at the best hotels the north had to offer. Don’t misunderstand me, we did plenty of legwork – averaging 3 hiking ‘highlights’ each day – but in between, we relaxed and visited, soaked up the scenery and pretended to be princesses (or princes, as the case might be).

The first day was the longest haul – Winnipeg to Thompson via the Interlake. Nobody seemed to mind, as the gang (24 of us) was pumped, the sky was a bright blue and the fields were a lovely patchwork of colour and texture. (Unfortunately, one of the textures was smooth and shiny, as the Interlake has had a serious amount of overland flooding).

That day was particularly memorable for me because I knocked 2 items off my bucket list: to see the limestone cliffs at Steep Rock on the east side of Lake Manitoba, and to behold the magnificent and powerful Pisew Falls.

The Prairie Pathfinders are experienced guides and at every walk, hike or tour I’ve participated in, they have supplied me with an itinerary – which includes photos, a map and some descriptive details about what to expect. I smiled a wee smile when I read that Steep Rock was reminiscent of a Greek Island, but ya know, when I squinted a bit, I got it.

The water was a definite aqua blue, and there was no denying it – those limestone cliffs were 9 meters high and blinding white. Rock climbing and exploring was easy with well-worn pathways that led you from one spectacular view to another. At the best spot, (you know it, the one Travel Manitoba uses on the cover of many publications), we hunkered down for a picnic, letting our legs dangle over the edge of the cliffs while we ate. A pretty good way to start an adventure, wouldn’t you agree? My one regret – and here’s a reason to return to Steep Rock – I wanted to swim in that blue, blue water.

Steep Rock cliffs

A few stops later, and about 600 kms. closer to Thompson, we rolled into the parking lot at Pisew Falls Provincial Park. The keeners had already cinched up their hiking boots, telescoped-out their walking sticks and donned their Tilley hats – so that when those bus doors opened, they were out – although they still had to wait for the rest of us laggards. I glanced outside (as I casually smeared sunscreen on my arms) and I noticed a definite agitation and flailing of arms amongst those who had disembarked. They quickly re-embarked. Perhaps I would take along insect repellent and don my mesh jacket/hat ensemble. See, sometimes it pays to sit at the back of the bus.

Pisew Falls

The Grass River drops 13 meters (and changes direction!) over Pisew Falls. Legend has it that Mishipisew, a cat-like creature, rules the water (pisew is the Cree word for lynx). On this particular day the feline chose to resist the pull of the falls by roiling, coiling, hissing and spitting. I could hear the roaring of the lynx all the way from the parking lot.

Manitoba Conservation has put a lot of thought into providing access to the river and the falls, while at the same time protecting this sensitive environment. There are several levels of staircases bringing you ever closer to the main attraction. The staircases connect to many lengths of boardwalk that will usher you to logically positioned viewing platforms.

The falls create their own little micro-climate: they never freeze solid and always provide huge amounts of humidity and moisture. Under the mist there are beds of brilliant green moss and ferns, some whose origins date back to the last Ice Age.

From Pisew you can hike to Kwasitchewan Falls, a rugged, 22 kms. backcountry trek,. There’s a primitive campsite at the half-way point, and many visitors choose to stay the night, enjoy the Falls, and then return to Pisew the next day.

My 23 compadres, being of sound body and mind, (and wanting to stay that way), opted for a leisurely stroll along the Grass River, taking in views of the falls from several angles. We did start inland, with the best of intentions, but were quickly dissuaded by the onslaught of every kind of flying and biting miscreant known to mankind.

Odds are, I probably had the opportunity to visit with everyone on the bus over the course of that first day, (even Jack the bus driver). We had a few things in common – a love of the great outdoors and an obvious attraction to an ‘active’ vacation – but beyond that we were a mixed bag, We had teachers, nurses, translators, writers, trail builders and accountants; there was an artist, an IT specialist and so on. Many of us were at the tail-end of our careers, while others were . . . how would you describe it . . . at the nose of their careers? Nah – that doesn’t work. My point being, that there was never a shortage of things to talk about.

I think that the first day, the Winnipeg to Thompson leg of the journey, served to bond the group, because from that point onward, we were a cohesive entity; none of us too demanding, all strong of spirit and will. Even though the Prairie Pathfinders had planned a rigorous agenda for the following 4 days, we were up for the task. We had each other’s backs.

In Thompson, our most northerly destination, we walked in the pelting rain along the Millennium Trail; a hike that loops around the city, yet still manages to capture the fragrance and sheer lushness of the boreal forest.

Flin Flon at dusk

On the 2^nd night we stopped in the picturesque town of Flin Flon – where we scrambled up the rocks, then down the rocks, then up some more rocks and so on. The next day, on our way to Swan River, we were introduced to the wonders of Clearwater Provincial Park. There, along the shoreline, or rather, separated from the shoreline, were deep, cave-like crevices, just begging to be explored.

Clearwater Provincial Park - exploring the caves

On the 4^th day of our journey, at a point not too far from St. Lazare, we found ourselves gazing down from a lofty height into the valley where the Assiniboine and Qu’Appelle rivers meet. A local cattle farmer, Marcel Fouillard, had granted us permission to access his property, where you can still find remnants of Fort Ellice, an old Hudson Bay trading post dating back to the early 19^th century.

We crossed the Assiniboine River once again on Day 5 of the Whirlwind tour and entered Spruce Woods Provincial Park. At high noon, on a +30° cloudless day, we set off to experience Manitoba’s Spirit Sands. The area felt like, and appeared to be a desert:  towering sand dunes, prickly pear cacti, Prairie Skink lizards and several varieties of snakes, (although try as I might, I didn’t get to see a Hognose Snake. I know they’re out there, though). Alternatively known as the Carberry Sandhills, the area receives too much rainfall to be considered a true desert, and is actually what’s left of the Assiniboine River delta from the time when the river flowed into glacial Lake Agassiz.

Spirit Sands Trail - Spruce Woods Provincial Park

All in all, this was quite the trip. Every day I experienced something new, something unexpected. In 5 days we travelled about 2300 kms; enough to get a pretty good feel for this large section of Manitoba. Each day was jam-packed with adventures and although I have only highlighted a few of them in this post, I’ll be sharing more stories over the next couple of months – so stay tuned.

The Prairie Pathfinders tell me that the response to their ‘Bus Off & Take A Hike’ tours has been overwhelmingly positive. They are planning another 5-Day Tour of Manitoba for next May. You will be able to find the details on the Prairie Pathfinders website.

You can contact me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or if you’re feeling magnanimous, leave a comment for all to share.

Arrested Development

Still, what do you do about the withdrawal symptoms you’re feeling now? Maybe I can help by providing you with a few visuals to keep you company over the next 12 months.

Before I do that, however, I must confess that I wasn’t at the FF for the full 5-day love-in. Don’t condemn me as I had an excellent reason: I was on a different kind of an extravaganza, a “5-day Whirlwind” hiking tour of northern Manitoba (blog to follow).

Let’s pause for a minute and consider this: what is the significance of the number 5 this year??

Anyhow, I got back to Winnipeg late Friday and the FF had been in full swing since Wednesday evening. My house was silent as my partner was off representing the family out at the Bird’s Hill festival site. So I bathed – then slept. Saturday morning I was up early exchanging my hiking boots for flip-flops and the mosquito jacket and pants for a skimpy little number. Now I was seriously ready to engage in the 37^th Winnipeg Folk Festival.

My favourite thing about the fest (besides the tailgate party) is the daytime workshops. The stages: Big Blue, Snowberry, Green Ash, Little Stage, Shady Grove and Bur Oak, are on the hop from 11:00 a.m. until 5:30 p.m., offering up a bonanza of musical delights. The stages are tucked in amongst the trees (and poison ivy) and each band shell is strategically positioned so that the sound from one won’t filter over to another.

Workshops run concurrently, and this is where the $5.00 spent on a program separates the wheat from the chaff, the ‘A’ type personalities from the ‘B’ types – or the weenies from the sausages (huh?). A seasoned folkie will map out the day’s workshops as timing is paramount. It helps too if you happen to run with a pack of audiophiles because with so many choices and workshops (with titles like “Perfect Strangers” or “Stay Where You’re At And I’ll Come Where You’re Tu”), an ill-informed individual such as myself could get overwhelmed.

Bur Oak Stage

This year, thanks to Travel Manitoba and the Winnipeg Folk Festival, I was issued a very precious commodity: a media/press pass. The pass permitted me access to prime vantage points around the stages so I could get some decent photos. I tried to stay low, (here’s where my diminutive stature comes in handy), and I only got the stink-eye a few times.

As you can imagine, by adding a zoom lens to the equation I was right up there – witnessing first hand the intimate interaction between the performers on stage. I promise you that I am not a voyeur, but judging from the subtle looks and body language I saw on stage, musicians seem to really get off on the daytime workshops too.

Many of my friends are creative so over time I’ve noticed, (I did a survey), that artists thrive on friction, uncertainty, and the great unknown. How else do they keep their creative juices flowing? Workshops throw musicians together and kind of force them to sort it out for themselves – and we, the crowd, are the happy recipients of that union.

Sure, summer moves on, and so will you. Your attention will shift musically to the Neil Young solo acoustic concert, and artistically to the Fringe Fest. Then of course, we have our rural festivals to consider, like the World Lily Festival in Neepawa, the Austin Threshermen’s Reunion, the Sunflower Festival in Altona, Gimli’s Islendingadagurinn, and Morden’s Corn & Apple Festival. The list could go on and on, but I’ll resist the temptation.

Still, when a certain wind blows, or a tune drifts by on the radio, you’ll think longingly of this year’s Winnipeg Folk Festival – and that’s when the separation anxiety will rise to the surface. So come back to this site and wallow in the captured images. After all, you deserve to enjoy the photos; I may have been standing in front of you when I shot them!!

Hot Tuna

Gord Downie Pressure

Main Stage - Cat Empire

Alvin Youngblood Hart

Contemporary Dancers

Greg Brown

Folk Fest Tailgate party

Sonny Landreth

Gord Downie Sarah Harmer John K. Samson

Zero Gravity Circus - tall girl big beer

Bo Ramsey and Pieta Brown

Arrested Development

Delhi 2 Dublin

Pieta Brown

Folk Fan - cooked

Gord Downie smiles

Until Next Year

Please send me an email at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or, if you’re not shy, leave a comment for all of us to enjoy.

I did a quick headcount and just about everyone who was anyone was there. The parking area was a sea of cars, the sun glinting off their windshields. Transit Tom was shuttling busloads of Festival ‘goers’ from Winnipeg every hour, and this year there was even a chance to ride your bicycle from Winnipeg to the Folk Festival – with an escort no less.

And yet, there was still a bit of trampled grass here and there that wasn’t occupied. So where were you?

You have concerns, I know. Let’s see if I can guess what they are.

1. Do you think folk music is a bit too “middle the road” for your taste?

Folk music is a term used rather loosely at the Festival. This year over 300 artists, from all over the world, were invited to Winnipeg to perform in 80 acts – so you can expect diversity with those kinds of numbers.

There are 9 outdoor stages running concurrently during the day at the festival site. As you make your way from one stage to another, don’t be surprised if you hear snippets of deep blues, hip-hop, achin’ breakin’ country folk, jazz, indie rock and maybe the squeal of bagpipes, the twang of a banjo and the harmonic complexities of electronica.

2. Maybe you stayed home because the thought of a daily merging with 14,000 scantily clad people seemed overwhelming.

The Winnipeg Folk Festival has been in operation for 37 years now and the well-trained and attentive volunteers are in evidence from the moment you hit the site until the last drive home on Sunday night. Their job is to ensure that the Festival runs like a finely tuned engine – and your happiness, comfort and safety are always at the top of their lists.

On the other hand, many of the 14,000 attendees are awfully good looking, so there’s always that.

3. Is it an age thing?

The demographic of the folkie  is hard to nail down, so let’s just say it runs the full gamut – from babies to octogenarians.

4. Nothing to wear?

I think fans are united in their desire to express themselves: tattoos abound, the goat people (i.e. the great unwashed) are content with a table cloth wrapped around their loins, the Peter Tosh wannabes struggle under the sheer weight of their dreadlocks, throwbacks to the 70’s strut about proudly in too-short cut-offs and bra-less tank tops. Then there’s the understated and ever stylish tie-dye muscle shirt, which has always been a hit in my books. As you can see, anything goes.

5. Maybe you’re worried about the weather because, after all, this is an outdoor event.

Haven’t you been reading my blogs? This is not an acceptable reason! Gear up or down, depending on what the skies look like. Hats, sunscreen, rain gear, bug spray, refillable water jugs – load up the car or your backpack with everything you need. If the weather becomes unacceptable – go to the beer tent. Duh.

6. Does the price of a ticket give you pause?

Okay, that’s a reasonable concern, but still totally reconcilable if you plan ahead: next year and take advantage of the Early Bird specials (pre May 31).

The 5-day pass is the best deal and this year it cost an adult $180.00, which works out to about $35.00/day. Seniors and youths (15 – 17 years) paid $100.00 for the 5-days, and children (5-14 years) were charged a mere $10.00. Babies and toddlers get in for free. Think about the costs incurred while taking your family to a movie. (And that’s only 2 hours of canned entertainment.)

If a 5 day commitment seem a bit intimidating to start with, then consider a day pass.

7. Speaking of kiddies, how would you hold their attention all day and night?

It’s never too soon to start training a “little folkie”. The Winnipeg Folk Festival has a dedicated Family Area with activities geared towards children. Transform your child into a tiger or an angel; let them muck about in the low-pressure sprinkler system or let them go nuts with paint and paper or modeling clay in the shade of the Chickadee Big Top tent. The Winnipeg Children’s Festival was on hand this year and the Zero Gravity Circus were there as well – clowning around.

8. Oh, I know, maybe you’re reluctant to go (pun intended) to the Festival because of the outdoor biffy-thing.

This too is a worthy concern, but I can tell you this: there are frequently-cleaned port-o-lets everywhere and the toilet paper is abundant. Furthermore, the creep-factor can be washed away at the many hand-washing stations – again, re-filled on a regular basis. PLUS, I’ve had many fine interactions with fellow folksters whilst holding my bladder in check in the line-up.

9. Shopping. I understand – I also experience withdrawal symptoms if I try to go too long without consuming, as we are, after all, products of our environment.

Thankfully, there is the Hand-Made Village – which features artful crafts, fashions, jewellery and all sorts of cool, high quality items made by 50 Canadian artists.

10. And finally, because surely you can’t have more than 10 concerns, you might be worried about satisfying your belly’s urges with nutritious food.

I think deep-fried Whales Tails are 100% nutritious, but maybe you think otherwise.

I noted that many people brought their own food and enjoyed on-the-spot picnics. My FF tribe has always taken a certain amount of pride in our ‘tail-gate’ parties, which are staged between the daytime workshops and the evening concert. Fresh fruit, bread, cheese, paté and plenty of appropriate tunes on the car stereo always make these events an important yearly ritual.

If you choose to travel light, however, take advantage of the Food Village. This year there were 20 stalls devoted to meeting all of your culinary cravings. The Winnipeg Folk Festival strives to make sustainable choices available to the masses. Most of the vendors offered items containing local ingredients, which were grown (or raised) organically, and many were produced using Fair Trade ingredients.

I’d highly recommend budgeting for at least one snack or meal, as the quality, freshness and wonderful aromas of the food choices capture your attention as soon as you arrive. The satisfaction comes along seconds later.

Have I missed anything? I hope I’ve addressed your reluctances and maybe even piqued your interest in the Winnipeg Festival. Go. I mean it! This is one of the premiere events of a Manitoba summer.

I’ll be posting another story shortly, sharing my own experiences from this year’s Winnipeg Folk Festival. As Travel Manitoba supplied me with a media pass, I was able to get up close and personal with some of the artists: imagine standing 4 feet from Gord Downie as he jammed at a workshop with Sarah Harmer and John K. Sampson. Exhilarating!

So stay tuned – my mom taught me to share and I’m still good that way.

Please send me an email at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or, if you’re not shy, leave a comment for all of us to enjoy.

Mountains are easy. So is the ocean. Anyone can just step out of the car and there they are. Beautiful. However, when you’re on the prairies and exploring Manitoba, that Kodak Moment may require a little more effort on your part and you might even have to get down and dirty. But it’s worth the work – and somehow even more satisfying because of it.

Southern Manitoba has been hit hard with rain this past month and there’s more water than we know what to do with. Look around – there’s water pooling in the fields, there’s stunted crops and the cattle are standing up to their hocks in mud.

It seems appropriate then, that this post casts water in a leading role.

Coca Cola Falls has been on my radar for a long time and last week I was going to find those falls, come hell or high water. According to the Manitoba Trans Canada Trail Navigational + Interpretive Guide to the Boreal Shield, Coca Cola Falls is “an impressive set of falls along North Coca Cola Creek”. What a colourful description; how could I resist?

My partner and I began our quest at the mouth of the Winnipeg River, where it pours into Lake Winnipeg. Coca Cola Creek is one of the tributaries that flow from the east into the Winnipeg River. We worked our way south on PTH 11 for about 30 kms. to the Great Falls Power Station. My interpretive map indicated that the Trans Canada Trail (TCT) crossed the great dam, and from there it would be possible to walk or cycle all the way to Coca Cola Falls.

There are eight hydroelectric dams along the 235 km. length of the Winnipeg River. Two of them are in Ontario: the Norman Dam in Kenora, and Whitedog Falls further north. In Manitoba, continuing north, there’s the Pointe du Bois Generating Station, (the oldest power plant still operating on the Winnipeg River), then onwards to Slave Falls, Seven Sisters, MacArthur, Great Falls and finally Pine Falls.

Great Falls Powerhouse stretches across the Winnipeg River. As you walk along the top of the dam, you can feel the vibration and see the force of the 6 turbines churning and funnelling huge volumes of water through their generators. When you look down the ‘other side’ you can watch as the water is spewed out, destined to continue on its way to, well, the next hydroelectric dam at Pine Falls.

As we poke along, hanging over the edge, coming to terms with vertigo, I spy a couple of innocent Manitoba Hydro employees going about their business. I accost them in a polite fashion and ask for information. They are dubious about our chances of getting to Coca Cola Falls because of All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) damage to the trail, but they encourage us to keep walking, because across the dam is a quarry, (where the building materials for Great Falls Dam were excavated), which is a great spot for a picnic.

The quarry is easy to find as it sits on an offshoot of the TCT. The biting flies have us in their sights, however, and since I don’t like sharing my lunch, the picnic stays safely stowed. Still, the destination is surprisingly beautiful and I appreciated the suggestion.

The water in the quarry is a transparent, aqua blue, and its depth unfathomable. Of course, swimming is not allowed as the water is deep and muscle-numbingly cold (I’m just guessing of course), plus there’s the hazard associated with submerged quarry stone and discarded machinery. I can’t help but think that this quarry could be converted for safe swimming some day. After all, Butchart Gardens in Victoria, BC used to be a quarry.

We explored the quarry by hopping from one chiselled slab to another before heading back to pick up the Trail. Several paths, created by snowmobiles or ATVs, head east towards Coca Cola Creek. We didn’t make it very far as the trails became lost in the undergrowth.

So – it’s back to the car – a little frustrated, but still keen on finding the falls. The next plan is to get to the other side of the Winnipeg River by car, then scout out the falls from that side.

We cross the river at Powerview and use the navigational side of the TCT interpretive guide to locate an access point to Coca Cola Falls. The Trail follows a rural road for about 25 kms through an area called Broadlands. The directional signage is well spaced and accurate. The road has a gravel surface, but that should not discourage cyclists as the Winnipeg River is often within view and the farmland and homesteads are visually engaging. (I’d find it a little tedious to walk, however).

Eventually we come to a little TCT parking sign, all identifiable markings shot through and through with a 22. There’s a rhyme there, but that’s all that is endearing about this. And next to that, a lovely Boreal Shield Trailhead sign, also blasted to bits, but this time with a shotgun. Nice.

But I can see Coca Cola Creek, so down we go, chaperoned by a flotilla of circling flies. They are well behaved, only sniffin’ and not biting. The Creek is a shimmering, swollen, beauty and just above the drone of the flies, I can hear the waterfall.

From the shot-out trailhead sign we head into the bush. There are two diverging trails, both of which are victims of ATV activity. The correct trail leads off to the right and that’s where we go, ankle deep in mud. The trail is about 1 ½ meters wide with a canopy of lushness that is inviting; yet deceiving. For once inside this lushness, and now calf deep in the muddy ruts, the flies and mosquitoes make their move. I’m embarrassed to say, I ran like a little girl out of there, using language a little girl should not know.

The other possible access point was a trail out in the open, so I doused myself in insect repellent and continued. I was up to my bits in mud immediately. I was stunned into silence over the damage ATV riders have inflicted on this area. I wish I could tell you I made the summit, or whatever you’d call the hiker’s ultimate destination, but I didn’t. I was thwarted at every turn by ATV destruction.

On the way back home, we stopped in Pine Falls and I bought a long sleeved jacket made of mosquito netting. It has a hood, also made of netting, that zips into place. I was a little bit excited, which immediately dismayed me. Next I’ll want a pocket protector for my pens and a snazzy pair of penny loafers. Exploring Manitoba has turned me into a nerd.

As for the ATV enthusiasts, where do you buy a protective jacket to deter them?

I reported my findings to Jim Chapryk, Executive Director of the Manitoba Recreational Trails Association, the non-profit group managing the building of the TCT. Trail damage caused by off-road vehicles is not uncommon, but each occurrence is disheartening to volunteer trail builders. Jim told me some good news though: that the Association has a plan in place to restore 5 kms. of the trail around Coca Cola Falls. I suggested the strategic placing of large boulders, perhaps dropped from a high altitude . . .

On another positive note (sorry about the rant) the day was actually a success. I firmly believe that those of us that are silent walkers, smooth cyclists, swift kayakers, and sensitive nature-lovers, will prevail.

Borrowed image of Coca Cola Falls

On this day, we explored the Winnipeg River System as far south as MacArthur Falls, we picnicked in the very picturesque town of St. George while overlooking the Winnipeg River, and we got so close to Coca Cola Falls that we could hear it. Sometimes success is a journey – not a destination, and the doing is often more important than the outcome.



Children find it funny to stick their fingers in their noses, and funnier still if they can get their finger into your nose. And they ride teeny bicycles. Clowns tend to be the same. They both give me the shivers – and for most of my life I’ve made an art out of avoiding them. Some might say it was fate, then, that Travel Manitoba suggested I check out Kidsfest 2010.

Every June, for the past 28 years, the Winnipeg International Children’s Festival (WICF) has made it their mandate to push the boundaries as to how much fun children (or those of us who struggle with maturity) are entitled to. The 4-day festival, dubbed Kidsfest, keeps growing, and this year the Executive Director, Neal Rempel, proudly trotted out 30 acts, which translated into over 120 performances, all aimed at wowing the younger set.

The WICF was the brainchild of Mitch Podolak and “Red River” Bill Merritt, of Winnipeg Folk Festival and local music scene fame, and Colin Jackson from the Prairie Theatre Exchange. 28 years is noteworthy. I suspect some of the guardians in attendance had originally been kiddies at those early-days shows. Perhaps they sat in strollers at Assiniboine Park, the Festival’s original location, or later on at Kildonan Park. The WICF moved to its current site at the Forks National Historic Park in 1990.

On the day I set out for my inaugural WICF experience the thunderclouds were boiling on the horizon and it was already drizzling (this is starting to become a familiar and most unwelcome trend this year). I had enlisted my nephew’s photogenic family, Bennie (3), Liam (1) and their wrangler/mother Ange, to join me so that I could attempt to see the show through a ‘child’s eyes’.

I had no idea what to expect, so when I arrived at The Forks to find the ample parking lots packed, I decided this was a formidable gathering of mothers that really wanted to get out of the house. I had a couple of hours to do some photography before my model family arrived. My ticket allowed me onto the site and from there I could take in as many shows as I could manage. I’d circled a selection of performances listed in my program, (which Liam eventually ate), that sounded as though they’d be interesting.

The WICF is set up very much like the Winnipeg Folk Festival in that there are many stages, most under big tops, to protect its precious inhabitants from the glare of sun, or in this case – rain. My first stop was Tent 3 to see Hilby, The Skinny German Juggle Boy. I had arrived a few minutes late so I struggled to keep a low profile in the now crowded tent. The noise was astounding: peals of laughter, squeals, and collective screaming. Obviously, Hilby was a hit with the kids and as I snaked my way to center front, as unobtrusively as I could, I started to listen.

Hilby is a gangly goof and visually, he vibrates. Verbally, he’s positively irreverent, and on every other level – totally engaging. He has the innate ability to make the kids crazy with joy and at the same time slide on that slippery slope that Monty Python perfected and adults revere.

Having said that, I have a bone to pick with Hilby. So he’d best beware.

You see, while he was performing, I had the audacity to pop up, quickly turn and take a picture of the laughing crowd. Hilby was busy juggling knives while balancing on a unicycle, and yet he noticed me. Teasingly he asked: “vhy aren’t you vatching me!!” (I’m sorry; my fake German accent doesn’t translate well into the written word). Off the stage he bounced, while I tried to blend in with the 5-year olds. Unbelievably, the lederhosen-clad “skinny German”, wrestled my very precious camera out of my hands.

Quick as a bunny he was back on stage again, juggling knives and – umm, my camera. The crowd was so enjoying this – I was somewhat less than amused. Hilby assured me he hadn’t dropped anything lately. He then took a toilet plunger “vitch has hardly ever been used” plunked my camera on the plunger bit, and balanced the whole business on the end of his nose. The crowd went wild. My teeth were grinding and yet my brain told me “this guy juggles chain saws, what are the odds he’ll drop my camera?” The story ended happily, I got my camera back, but not before he snapped a pic of me with the most unappealing look on my face (and no, I’m not including it in the blog). Quickly, the crowd turned its attention to some other zany antic. That’s when I started to get a tiny headache.

From there I made my way to the main tent. Fred Penner is a slick and flawless performer and, as always, a crowd pleaser. Again the huge tent was packed to the rafters. I was impressed and a little touched that Fred – the star, invited a little 3’ high guy, sporting a mini acoustic guitar, on stage to share the limelight. Apparently this was a come-back performance as the little rocker played with Fred when he was only 2’ high.

Next I’m off to meet up with my model family, whom I hope to hurry along so as to see Ache Brasil, a troupe of dancers and musicians that incorporates acrobatics, self-defence tactics and: “breath-taking kicks” into their program. Unquote.

I guess anyone who has children just had a little guffaw at my expense after reading that. One does not hurry along 1 and 3-year old children. Apparently, gum stuck on the sidewalk has more appeal than death-defying kicks. Then, of course there’s the busker who has a whistle and a corrugated washboard vest that he can strum with his fingers. That can pretty much kill an afternoon when you have children in tow. Jeez.

Eventually Ange and I herded the kids towards the tent where Ache Brasil was playing. I was instantly absorbed into the crowd, intent on finding a good spot to get a photo. I hunkered down mid-crowd with the smell of candyfloss and loaded diapers confusing my senses. I enjoyed following Ache Brasil through my lens as they were colourfully attired, athletic and, well, pretty buff. The crowd was energized and I liked that too. The tiny girl next to me chose to watch me instead though, and rested her elbow possessively on my shoulder the whole time. That added an element to a photo shoot that I’m not used to – and only once did she put her little, sticky pink finger on my viewfinder.

Only later did I find out that my charges for the day got immediately distracted and toddled off with their ever-attentive mom to see the police car with the shiny lights. Then, seconds later, when that got boring, they went off to play in the sand at the Parks Canada tent: “Kids Dig History At The Forks!” The little boys were oblivious to the big acts, but the WICF already knew that and had set aside huge areas just for them. There was face painting, clowns on stilts twisting balloons into poodle and giraffe shapes, kite flying, squishy clay to mould and muck about in, hoops laden with colourful cloth just for crawling through – and on and on.

It’s pretty clear that after 28 years the WICF have it all figured out. Everyone from tots to teens to thoughtful moms and dads, to those of us who still have a hankering to laugh out loud might want to circle their calendars NOW for next June’s Winnipeg International Children’s Festival. See you there.

You can send me an email at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or, if you’re not shy, leave a comment for all of us to share.

I was up before the birds Friday and my ride would be arriving soon. I didn’t have to wait for my alarm to sound, a wicked thunderstorm was right on top of me and the ka-boom could have woken the dead. One strike was so close I peeked between the venetian blinds just to make sure my massive elm tree was still in an upright position. A rather ominous way to start the day.

I looked at the weather channel before leaving. The forecasters were tracking the cold front, that was meeting the warm front, doing that thing they do and making predictions as best they could. Bottom line: the storm was tracking slowly east towards my destination, near the Manitoba/Ontario border. We could expect a mere 1  mm of rain with the temperature warm at around +25. All systems go.

2 hours later I’m standing on the Canadian Shield, along with 30 other people, the rain pelting down, knees knockin’ from the cold, watching our day’s plan go down the drain. We had been invited to the Whiteshell Provincial Park by the Three Fires Society to participate in a special First Nations ceremony at a remote, sacred site.

ATV Damage

Record amounts of rainfall that morning, on top of an access trail already compromised by all-terrain vehicles effectively put the kibosh on the proceedings. Aboriginal Elder Charlie Nelson, from Roseau River, shared some teachings with us at an alternate site, but when the wind started to blow and the lightning joined in, we agreed to reconvene in September.

Foiled by an inaccurate weather forecast. I know, hard to believe.

Back in the comfort of a dry, warm car we decided to take the scenic route back to Winnipeg. After all, we’d come all this way and there really was no reason to tuck our tails and run for cover.

Our first stop was Beausejour where we stopped for milkshakes and, since there was a lull in the rain, a short hike through the Manitoba Glass Works heritage site. You can pretty much forget about a quiet walk at a heritage site when your two travelling companions work for Manitoba Historic Resources.

The Manitoba Glass Works factory was built in 1904 to take advantage of some of finest silica sand in western Canada. The first employees were of Polish descent and they produced glass using European methods – liquefying the sand over heat in a pot and then blowing the molten lava into the desired shape. It wasn’t long before the factory grew to employ over 300 people and a form of semi-automation was introduced. Tank furnaces, made from clay brick, were continually stoked, supplying the glass blowers with good quality glass 24/7. The glass factory’s main clients were Winnipeg’s breweries and soft drink bottlers. Unfortunately, even with these modern advances, the Manitoba Glass Works Factory couldn’t hold their own against eastern manufacturers and the factory was sold in 1913.

The walk is a pleasant amble and you can still see the footings of some of the buildings here and there. I also appreciated a little exercise – to allow our milkshakes to “settle in”.

For what ever reason (divine intervention?) the weather was holding. And so, from Beausejour, we veered south and a wee bit west to visit a most unique place: the Ukrainian Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception at Cook’s Creek, Manitoba. Quite a mouthful, but there you have it.

As you cruise along Highway 212, the first thing you see of the Church, commonly called the Cathedral of the Prairies, are its 9 “onion” domes rising out of the ground. The domes represent the 9 ranks (or spheres) of angels. What is startling about this building, besides its remote location, is its opulence. From afar you can see intricate tile work and architectural detail abundantly laden with gold and copper; statues at every turn and masonry that harkens back to the masters. But get up close to the “castle” and you realize all of this perceived affluence is just that – perceived. What you see has been achieved by the clever use of brightly coloured paint, painstakingly applied over plaster. In my opinion, this enhances the charm of the place.

Construction of the church started in the 1930’s, right around the time of the great depression. Money was scarce, but the parishioner’s devotion was not. Construction took over 20 years and the labour and fine artistry was provided by the nearby farming community.

In the 60’s a Grotto was added to the mix. The Grotto is also a study in mimicry: a representation in concrete of the Grotto at Lourdes, France. A walk around the beautiful grounds takes you back to medieval times.

Apparently I’m not the first to make this astute observation. A congregation of about 200 people supports the Church of the Immaculate Conception and every year volunteers host a medieval festival – a fundraising event for the upkeep of the Church and Grotto. I recall several years ago driving down Zora Road and coming upon this spectacle. I had to stop and get out of the car to fully comprehend what I was seeing. The courtyard was a congestion of lords and ladies, bards, jesters and peasant-folk. Minstrels were playing their flutes, while out on the “Field of Valour”, knights clad in armour, lances at the ready, charged their opponents at full gallop on high-strung steeds. It sounded kind of painful when those lances connected.

This year’s festival is planned for July 24, 2010. The evening feast includes wild boar and turkey drumsticks – and you shouldn’t expect any utensils, licking your fingers and wiping them on your ‘tunic’ is the norm.

We spent a good hour poking around the grounds and taking in the view from the top rampart of the Grotto. The Church doors were open to the public on this particular day as there was a bus tour visiting the site – and I was able, for the first time, to experience the beauty of that inner sanctum.

And that is where we ended our day’s adventures. Not bad, considering how the day started: doom, gloom and ka-boom. Manitoba is full of surprises and finding them is all part of the fun. However, I don’t mind giving you a hint once and a while and a gentle shove in the right direction.

You can find the Manitoba Glass Works Factory Heritage Trail by driving down the main street in Beausejour, Park Avenue, until you reach 1^st Street. Head south to James Avenue and stop at number ˙340.

The Church of the Immaculate Conception, Cook’s Creek, Manitoba is located at the junction of Highway 212 & Sapton Road.

Email me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or, if you’re not shy, leave a comment for us all to share.

Lilac Street in Winnipeg

I’ve been writing this blog since January and if you’ve been following the stories, you’ll know that my passion is being active in the great outdoors. I’ve tried to introduce you to all kinds of interesting corners of Manitoba where you can hike, ski, cycle, whatever. I’m happy to tell you that Travel Manitoba has now given me the nod to write about other aspects of this province that I think may appeal to Manitobans and visitors. So occasionally, like today, I’m going to throw you a curve ball. I’ll step out of my comfort zone and maybe we’ll have some fun. Here we go.

Women like shopping. More to the point, women like to look good. Shopping is a necessary step in acquiring the stuff to make them look good. To make this part of the process as painless as possible I start by identifying the need, then I locate the target, deploy, get in and get out. Take no prisoners. A military manoeuvre, as effective as it is sterile.

I have an analytical mind, a bit plodding, but analytical. So finally, after decades of drudgery, I dared to ask myself, “Why is shopping such a drag?” I can sum up my conclusion in four words – malls and big box stores. I mean, what can possibly be engaging about traipsing from one faceless bunker to another? The lights alone in a mall make you want to run for cover.

There are, however, places in Winnipeg where shopping rises above the mundane. Lilac Street is one of them. This is a small area, maybe a block or two long, running perpendicular to Corydon Avenue. It is a concentrated effort – everything you could possibly want and yet, unsurprisingly, you won’t find at Wal-Mart.

The street is lined with 125-year-old American Elm trees, the storefronts are quaint and the skyline is an irregular surprise of angles. Intermingled with the shops are lovely, old, nicely-appointed apartments and condominiums. This is why the area is so vital. Residential intermingled with commerce, all cohabiting, all complimenting and supporting one another.

My pal Terry Lacosse, owner and boss-artist at Gallery Lacosse, set up shop on Lilac Street, a few years ago, giving me an excellent reason to frequent the area. Terry is a fine artist with the astute mind of a Wall Street broker. Most of us function efficiently using the left OR right side of the brain; Terry works both sides with scary efficiency.

"Lilac Storm" painting by Terry Lacosse

His shop will set the tone for anyone’s day of shopping. Gallery Lacosse’s walls are lined with paintings and photographs by the over 30 local artists he represents, and his showcases offer up tasty jewellery, pottery and glasswork.

As much as I love Gallery Lacosse though, I have to admit to an even stronger craving: Cha-Cha’s. The TV series and movie “Sex in the City” is mostly inane, but I agree with one aspect – a good shoe now and again makes up for life’s inadequacies – and Cha-Cha’s is my first choice for a good shoe. Luckily, if they don’t have just what I’m after, a few stores down the street is the boutique Soul. More shoes!

I think the trick to shopping – now pay attention – is mixing up the occasion with lunch or supper, a coffee, or, depending on the position of the sun’s yardarm, a martini. Lilac Street has all of the above.

Bread and Circuses Bakery & Cafe is a popular stop and the coffee is dark and rich tasting. Owner Roy Friesen confirms that their kitchen produces fresh baking 6 days a week. In fact each day has its own specialty bread: Balkan rye, Harvest Home and cinnamon raisin to name a few. As for shopping fatigue, a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice and a Pear Feta Walnut Salad gives you a kick-start should you start to lag.

Bread and Circuses

Occasionally, my girlfriends and I have also been seen at Café Carlos. The menu has been tweaked recently and I can lose myself in the choices. Oh, and their martinis are invigorating.

Back on the street, you’ll find a number of stores carrying clothing that appeals to individuals from “16 years of age to 60 plus”, to quote Francesca, the owner of CHIC clothing. That’s a pretty optimistic range, but hey, 60 is the new 45, Right? Go ahead – try something on. It is fun and you may just feel inspired by the new look.

And finally, as your thoughts turn towards home and the couch that beckons, stop for a bouquet of fresh cut flowers from Beyond Flowers or the Green Scene and a final stop at Whodunit? book store for a take-away mystery.

Beyond Flowers

Now that’s how a day of shopping should always go.

Email me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or leave a comment for all of us to enjoy.

Over the years I’ve had the pleasure of trekking to wonderful destinations all over Manitoba with a group of walkers called the Prairie Pathfinders. Usually these sojourns focus on hiking: many, many kilometres of hiking. It figures then, that just when you think you know the formula, the co-founders of the Prairie Pathfinders mix it up. In this case, a weekend at the Whiteshell Provincial Park with an emphasis on rest and relaxation – and sure, a couple of easy hikes, just to keep our blood circulating.

The laid-back mood was apparent when I walked into our accommodations for the weekend – the Pinewood Lodge at Dorothy Lake. There, lounging by the indoor saltwater pool, were a dozen or so familiar faces intent on their card game, while others percolated away in the whirlpool. Not a hiking boot in sight.

Pinewood Lodge is owned and operated by Raquel and Jeff Lincoln – and more to the point, they built the darn place. Raquel has been a force in my life for years; from a time when I was in the business of building recreational trails. In her spare time (as if!) she’s the president of the North Whiteshell Trail Association, which is a group of volunteers who are busy building their portion of the Trans Canada Trail. If you hooked Raquel up to a generator, you could illuminate a large city with her excess energy.

The sign-in desk at the Pinewood Lodge is dwarfed by its surroundings. The “great room” soars 30 feet high, the stone fireplace is big enough to stand in, and the floor to ceiling windows bring the whole outdoor vista inside: granite rock ridges, black spruce and a twinkling lake. My room, once I get there, is no less impressive – a private Jacuzzi – oh boy!

Occasionally, we tear ourselves away from the lodge and all its amenities. One of the hikes we take is an old favourite of mine – Pine Point Rapids. The trailhead is a short drive east of the Whiteshell Museum (Nutimik) on PR 307. I’m curious about the condition of the trail as last time I walked here the place looked like a moonscape with trees flattened and foliage decimated by a tornado and high winds in June of 2007.

Pine Point Rapids Trail is just over 8 kms long and there’s a bit of rock scrambling involved, so I’d say it is a moderate to intermediate type of trail. Reasonable footwear is a must and you should plan on taking a few hours.

The clearly defined trail loops off to your right where you’ll experience first-hand the granite magnificence of the Canadian Shield. The ultimate reward of this hike is the Whiteshell River and it’s 3 attractions – Pine Point Rapids, Acorn Falls and Viburnum Falls.

We stop for tea at the falls. This is more an act of homage rather than a “pause that refreshes”. Aboriginal people, fur traders and trappers have followed this very river for thousands of years and it is only respectful to stop and to consider your surroundings. It is interesting that the name Whiteshell refers to the cowrie shells that were traded amongst the various first nation groups in North America and were used by the Anishinabe in the region.

On the way out, closing the loop, the Trail passes through what was once (pre 2007) a black spruce, jack pine and aspen forest. The tornado’s damage is still evident, but I’m less disheartened than when I last visited. Manitoba Conservation has removed most of the deadfall to lessen the danger of a forest fire, and here and there are signs of new life.

Before returning to “poolside” we stop at another trailhead and walk out to view the Bannock Point Petroforms. The petroforms are thought to date back to A.D. 500. Lichen covered stones stretch across the bedrock – and what appears at first to be just a bunch geometric shapes soon morphs into turtles, snakes, humans and other thought-provoking figures. There is something here, a feeling of being watched, a sense of something bigger than me.

Petroform - turtle

I am aware of other petroform sites within the Whiteshell Provincial Park that have been fenced off from the public. When I was an Interpreter in the park you could still access these places, but believe it or not, some seriously confused individual(s) decided to realign history, by moving the rocks. Lucky for them the spirits of ancients are benevolent.

The Anishinabe and other First Nations people attach significant importance to petroforms. These ancient patterns are physical reminders of instructions given to Native people by the spirits. As you walk amongst the figures, quiet yourself and remember this is a sacred place: a place for teaching, a place for healing.

Gifts of tobacco and cloth offered to the ancient spirits

The Whiteshell Provincial Park is only 2 hrs east of Winnipeg, on PR 307, so you could make a lunch and have a pleasant day trip. If you want to linger, there are several campgrounds to choose from, as well as rental accommodations. The attractions and activities in the area are endless.