Divine Intervention

June 4th, 2010 | Posted by Jacquie Crone
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I was up before the birds Friday and my ride would be arriving soon. I didn’t have to wait for my alarm to sound, a wicked thunderstorm was right on top of me and the ka-boom could have woken the dead. One strike was so close I peeked between the venetian blinds just to make sure my massive elm tree was still in an upright position. A rather ominous way to start the day.

I looked at the weather channel before leaving. The forecasters were tracking the cold front, that was meeting the warm front, doing that thing they do and making predictions as best they could. Bottom line: the storm was tracking slowly east towards my destination, near the Manitoba/Ontario border. We could expect a mere 1  mm of rain with the temperature warm at around +25. All systems go.

2 hours later I’m standing on the Canadian Shield, along with 30 other people, the rain pelting down, knees knockin’ from the cold, watching our day’s plan go down the drain. We had been invited to the Whiteshell Provincial Park by the Three Fires Society to participate in a special First Nations ceremony at a remote, sacred site.

ATV Damage

Record amounts of rainfall that morning, on top of an access trail already compromised by all-terrain vehicles effectively put the kibosh on the proceedings. Aboriginal Elder Charlie Nelson, from Roseau River, shared some teachings with us at an alternate site, but when the wind started to blow and the lightning joined in, we agreed to reconvene in September.

Foiled by an inaccurate weather forecast. I know, hard to believe.

Back in the comfort of a dry, warm car we decided to take the scenic route back to Winnipeg. After all, we’d come all this way and there really was no reason to tuck our tails and run for cover.

Our first stop was Beausejour where we stopped for milkshakes and, since there was a lull in the rain, a short hike through the Manitoba Glass Works heritage site. You can pretty much forget about a quiet walk at a heritage site when your two travelling companions work for Manitoba Historic Resources.

The Manitoba Glass Works factory was built in 1904 to take advantage of some of finest silica sand in western Canada. The first employees were of Polish descent and they produced glass using European methods – liquefying the sand over heat in a pot and then blowing the molten lava into the desired shape. It wasn’t long before the factory grew to employ over 300 people and a form of semi-automation was introduced. Tank furnaces, made from clay brick, were continually stoked, supplying the glass blowers with good quality glass 24/7. The glass factory’s main clients were Winnipeg’s breweries and soft drink bottlers. Unfortunately, even with these modern advances, the Manitoba Glass Works Factory couldn’t hold their own against eastern manufacturers and the factory was sold in 1913.

The walk is a pleasant amble and you can still see the footings of some of the buildings here and there. I also appreciated a little exercise – to allow our milkshakes to “settle in”.

For what ever reason (divine intervention?) the weather was holding. And so, from Beausejour, we veered south and a wee bit west to visit a most unique place: the Ukrainian Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception at Cook’s Creek, Manitoba. Quite a mouthful, but there you have it.

As you cruise along Highway 212, the first thing you see of the Church, commonly called the Cathedral of the Prairies, are its 9 “onion” domes rising out of the ground. The domes represent the 9 ranks (or spheres) of angels. What is startling about this building, besides its remote location, is its opulence. From afar you can see intricate tile work and architectural detail abundantly laden with gold and copper; statues at every turn and masonry that harkens back to the masters. But get up close to the “castle” and you realize all of this perceived affluence is just that – perceived. What you see has been achieved by the clever use of brightly coloured paint, painstakingly applied over plaster. In my opinion, this enhances the charm of the place.

Construction of the church started in the 1930’s, right around the time of the great depression. Money was scarce, but the parishioner’s devotion was not. Construction took over 20 years and the labour and fine artistry was provided by the nearby farming community.

In the 60’s a Grotto was added to the mix. The Grotto is also a study in mimicry: a representation in concrete of the Grotto at Lourdes, France. A walk around the beautiful grounds takes you back to medieval times.

Apparently I’m not the first to make this astute observation. A congregation of about 200 people supports the Church of the Immaculate Conception and every year volunteers host a medieval festival – a fundraising event for the upkeep of the Church and Grotto. I recall several years ago driving down Zora Road and coming upon this spectacle. I had to stop and get out of the car to fully comprehend what I was seeing. The courtyard was a congestion of lords and ladies, bards, jesters and peasant-folk. Minstrels were playing their flutes, while out on the “Field of Valour”, knights clad in armour, lances at the ready, charged their opponents at full gallop on high-strung steeds. It sounded kind of painful when those lances connected.

This year’s festival is planned for July 24, 2010. The evening feast includes wild boar and turkey drumsticks – and you shouldn’t expect any utensils, licking your fingers and wiping them on your ‘tunic’ is the norm.

We spent a good hour poking around the grounds and taking in the view from the top rampart of the Grotto. The Church doors were open to the public on this particular day as there was a bus tour visiting the site – and I was able, for the first time, to experience the beauty of that inner sanctum.

And that is where we ended our day’s adventures. Not bad, considering how the day started: doom, gloom and ka-boom. Manitoba is full of surprises and finding them is all part of the fun. However, I don’t mind giving you a hint once and a while and a gentle shove in the right direction.

You can find the Manitoba Glass Works Factory Heritage Trail by driving down the main street in Beausejour, Park Avenue, until you reach 1^st Street. Head south to James Avenue and stop at number ˙340.

The Church of the Immaculate Conception, Cook’s Creek, Manitoba is located at the junction of Highway 212 & Sapton Road.

Email me at jacquie.crone@gmail.com or, if you’re not shy, leave a comment for us all to share.